A Guide to Understanding: Cashmere
The quality of cashmere can vary significantly based on several factors, including the origin of the fibers, their length, thickness, and how the fibers are processed. Here's a detailed breakdown of what makes different types of cashmere vary in quality:
1. Fiber Length
Longer Fibers: Cashmere fibers that are longer (generally 34-36mm in length) produce a smoother, softer, and more durable fabric. Longer fibers result in less pilling and a finer texture, leading to higher-quality cashmere.
Shorter Fibers: Shorter fibers (less than 28mm) tend to produce cashmere that pills more quickly and feels less smooth. These fibers can also lead to a weaker structure and quicker wear and tear.
2. Fiber Thickness (Micron Count)
Finer Fibers: The fineness of cashmere fibers is measured in microns (a micron is one-millionth of a meter). High-quality cashmere comes from fibers that are typically 14-16 microns in diameter. Finer fibers result in softer, lighter, and more luxurious cashmere.
Coarser Fibers: Cashmere with fibers thicker than 19 microns tends to feel rougher and less luxurious, and it doesn't drape as well. The thicker the fiber, the lower the perceived quality and softness.
3. Source of the Cashmere (Region and Goat Breed)
Mongolian and Chinese Cashmere: Mongolia and parts of China (particularly Inner Mongolia) are renowned for producing some of the highest-quality cashmere due to the extreme cold climate. This harsh environment forces the goats to produce a fine, insulating undercoat, which results in superior cashmere.
Himalayan Cashmere (Pashmina): Cashmere from goats in the Himalayas, often marketed as "Pashmina," is another highly prized variety, known for its exceptional softness and warmth.
Other Regions: Cashmere from other regions can still be of high quality, but fiber length and fineness can vary more, affecting the consistency and overall quality.
4. Harvesting Method
Combing: The best quality cashmere is collected by combing the goats during their molting season. This method carefully removes only the fine undercoat (the downy part of the fleece), which is the softest and most desirable.
Shearing: Cashmere obtained by shearing can be of lower quality because it includes both the coarse outer guard hair and the finer undercoat, leading to less softness and purity in the final product.
5. Purity of Cashmere
100% Pure Cashmere: The best quality cashmere is made from 100% pure cashmere, meaning it contains no blends with other fibers. This type of cashmere is softer, more durable, and has better insulating properties.
Blended Cashmere: Blends with wool, silk, or synthetic fibers are often marketed as cashmere but are of lower quality. These blends are less soft, durable, and may lose their shape over time.
6. Processing and Spinning
Gentle Processing: High-quality cashmere is processed and spun carefully to preserve the integrity of the fibers. Minimal chemical treatments and careful washing maintain softness and strength.
Over-processing: Poorer-quality cashmere is often over-processed with harsh chemicals, which can strip away the natural oils and reduce softness, durability, and insulation. Additionally, low-quality spinning techniques can weaken the fiber and result in more pilling.
7. Grade of Cashmere
Cashmere is graded based on its fineness and overall quality:
Grade A: This is the finest cashmere, with a fiber diameter of about 14-16 microns. It’s extremely soft, light, and durable.
Grade B: Slightly thicker at around 19 microns, this cashmere is still soft but less luxurious than Grade A.
Grade C: The thickest type of cashmere, around 30 microns in diameter, it is coarser, heavier, and often found in less expensive garments.
8. Pilling
High-Quality Cashmere: Longer fibers and better spinning processes reduce the chances of pilling. When pilling does occur, it can be removed easily without damaging the fabric.
Low-Quality Cashmere: Shorter fibers, lower-grade spinning, and poor processing result in more frequent pilling. This reduces the garment's lifespan and aesthetic appeal.
9. Weight and Ply
2-Ply Cashmere: High-quality cashmere garments are often 2-ply, meaning two yarns are twisted together to form a single thread. This results in a denser, warmer, and more durable fabric.
Single-Ply Cashmere: Single-ply cashmere is lighter and may not be as durable or warm, though it can still be of good quality if the fibers and construction are high-grade.
10. Dyeing and Color
Natural Colors: Cashmere in its natural shades (cream, brown, and grey) tends to be softer because it undergoes less chemical treatment during dyeing. Natural color cashmere also preserves the integrity of the fibers better.
Heavily Dyed Cashmere: Cashmere that is heavily dyed, especially with harsh chemical processes, can lose some of its softness and durability due to the weakening of the fibers.
11. Climate Sensitivity
Cold-Climate Cashmere: Goats living in extremely cold climates produce finer and softer undercoats to withstand the weather, resulting in better-quality cashmere.
Milder Climates: Goats raised in warmer climates tend to produce coarser fibers, which are less desirable for luxurious cashmere production.
Conclusion:
The quality of cashmere is determined by factors such as the length and fineness of the fibers, the region where the goats are raised, the processing methods, and whether the cashmere is pure or blended. The best cashmere is typically from Mongolia or Tibet, is hand-combed, made from long and fine fibers, and undergoes minimal processing to preserve its softness and durability.